Sunday, March 16, 2008

Best KKK rally ever!

Palm Sunday marks the start of Semana Santa, or Holy Week, which for the Sevillianos, is a tradition of some 2,000 processions, some dating back to the 13th century. Today, we saw our first of what will likely be many pasos this week, and we were so moved by what we saw we may even go to church next Sunday. I’ll let you know how that turns out.

Here are some pictures from today’s paso, La Hiniestra (and others), and below is a video. Some background: There are men underneath carrying that float, certainly no easy feat (you’ll see it hoisted), which is why the day-long processions likely stop every five or so minutes. That, and the fact that it’s a tradition for bar owners along the route to come out with beer to refresh these He-Men. Perhaps floats get lighter as the men get drunker?

Also, some much needed explanation on the Klan-like hoods: Sevillianos don’t hate black people. The hoods are worn by the nazarenos, or brothers in the procession’s fraternity, as a symbol of repentance and grief. Other members wear a penitente, which looks like the masks worn by medieval executioners. These guys carry crosses over their shoulders—in some cases as many as four—depending on the amount of repenting that needs to be done. (Oh, those Catholics—always coming up with the craziest schemes to keep you from sinning!)

Kidding aside, the processions truly are sights to behold, what with Jesus on the cross, the funeral-like dirges played by the band and those cute little Ku Klux Klan outfits. It all makes for an eerily charming experience and I don’t believe we’ve even seen the best of it yet.

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